Day 56: Silverburn House

Distance: 15.0 miles
Whisky: Jura
Today it rained. We woke up; it was raining. Over breakfast, we watched the wind blow sheets of rain past the beautiful tall bay windows at Cringletie. It rained when we set out, it rained while we walked, it was raining when we arrived. In between, there were some periods when the rain let up. To compensate, Mother Nature kept a howling north wind in our face, a wind fierce enough that you had to lean into it, and fight for each step. All day the clouds zoomed past, dark clouds followed by darker clouds. We were waiting for the wind to blow the clouds out, and bring us a little sun. Never happened. The wind blew, and the rain came down, all day long.




Our destination today is the home of our friends Brian and Hilary, a couple we'd met a month ago in the sunshine of Shropshire, at Soulton Hall, in Wem. Our planned route took us within a couple of miles of their home on the edge of the Pentland Hills. They invited us to stay with them, and of course we gratefully accepted. We worked out what looked like a reasonable reroute, mostly keeping to back lanes, tracks, and paths. We did get lost once, but we exercised our right to roam, hopped a barbed wire fence, found a footbridge over a stream, and made our way back on course. And even on these lesser travelled footpaths in the Scottish Borders, I'm pleased to report that the bench situation remains very good.




The most torrential rain came near the end of our walk, in the absurdly spelled town of Penicuik ("Penny-Cook"). When we first walked over the bridge and into town, the hail and rain eased up a bit, teasing us with the hope that it would end. Instead the floodgates opened up. Looking frantically for shelter, we saw a "coffee here" sign and made a dash for it. Turned out to be a small cafe in the front of a beautiful church, with a striking blue theme in its stained glass and carpet. We took refuge, and had coffee and cake, leaving just as the rain slowed to its normal rate, welcoming us back outside.




Once through Penicuik, it didn't take long to get to Silverburn House. It was a real treat for us to stay in a regular home for the first time in two months! The house itself is beautiful, sitting on an acre and half of well tended and loved gardens, with the vastness of the Pentland Hills acting as a backdrop. The food was delicious, especially when bookended by a little peaty whisky and accompanied by a very approachable Cotes du Rhone.




Like my Dad, Brian is a fly fisherman. He fishes for salmon in the rivers, and rainbow and brown trout in the lochs. Here he is with his salmon flies. A gift from his children.




It was a fantastic, well appreciated evening, especially after such a dismal day for walking. Tomorrow we head into and over the Pentland Hills, and then walk along the Water of Leith into Edinburgh! There we meet up with our friends Michael and Jan, who will be joining us for the next two weeks walking to Inverness.

Location:Penicuik, Scotland, United Kingdom