Blister Description: CENSORED
Michael (MAK) here driving the keyboard today while Dawn, Al, and Jan are out walking. While I planned to be with them my blistered feet have, at least for today, insisted on other plans. So I thought this might be a good time for a bit of off path reporting!
But first a brief mention of the stretch of the West Highland Way they are covering today. It is reputed to be the longest and one of the most challenging -- from the Bridge of Orchy Hotel to Kinlochleven it is reported to be but a wee 21 miles of up, up, up, and then down, down, ouch, oww, and still yet more down. Here's a snap from behind the windscreen of where they headed (I used wheels rather than feet today -- a big shout out of thanks to Jane for the timely ride, and to David and the Canadian curlers for sharing their tour leader).
And for those still keeping count, the 21 miles are 'Al miles,' so God knows how far they may really have to walk! As they are expected to have a very long day, look for the post on this leg tomorrow (wifi permitting). BTW- how many of you have noticed that 99% of the time Dawn is out front of the pack laying down a mean pace?! Al totes up the miles for distance, but number of steps would also be a fair metric. Believe Dawn may be crushing Al about two to one on that scale -- go Dawn!!
The walking is fantastic. So are some of the moments off the path. There's always a lot to learn when traveling. For instance, recently we've learned (admittedly slowly) that asking questions of restaurant wait staff may be seen as more of a rhetorical thing here. A few evenings ago at a nice dinner spot that turned out to have really good food, Jan asked our server how one of the chicken items on the menu was prepared? The waitress's polite and seemingly confident reply was, "cooked." We decided this was reassuring if not entirely helpful. Another time when we asked what 'Fondant' was on the menu, the waiter said 'that's a good question, I've got no idea." Other interesting responses from wait staff include, "I've haven't a clue," "I've always wondered that myself," and my personal favorite was when I asked our waiter at the Inversnaid Retirement Center (see Al's post from a few days back) if they had yogurt the reply was: "I'll have to get the manager"!
Of course many of the best off, and on, path moments are the nice and interesting people you get to meet. Al wrote a few days ago about the gentleman whose family has long run Gartfairn Farm in Balmaha. Ian Richards and his, soon to be wife Deb, run the beautiful Ewich House. Ian had a long career as a fire fighter that reached the level of chief. As Americans we owe him a special debt for his service in the Bronx after 911. Connections like this help shrink a big world. We also met two Dutch women who have not only done a great number of long walks around the world, but are also part of a band that plays folk music internationally. Al was impressed by the distances they've walked but a little disappointed they weren't carrying their instruments to give an impromptu concert. Their music may be folk but their contact card rocks!
Before it starts to seem like being an off-the-path blogger is all cush and no work, just this afternoon I had to spend a couple of hours stuck in the elegant, historic 'sitting lounge' of the Kings House Hotel that has hosted some of Scotland's most famed climbers since it first opened in the 1600's and has also served as barracks for troops of George III.
Oh yeah, I also had to cool my heels in their awesome pub for a bit until Jan and the LEJOGers arrived for lunch. Some of their tasty local cask beers made this a more manageable chore, which was actually cut short as Al, Dawn and Jan made great time on the first half of the day.
Turns out walkers aren't the only folks who stop by for a bite at the Kings House.
And in a bit of turn about it seems the walkers sometimes appear to do the feeding rather than getting fed. It looks like this group might do so regularly (wonder if they bother trying to ask their servers what's on the menu?). I almost got a photo of this but Lance Armstrong appeared at the wrong moment.
Good thing Al wasn't around as I think he likes venison as much as lamb!
The nifty backpack transfer service Dawn mentioned yesterday is called Travel-Lite, and is run by a terrific, and very competent fellow named Gilbert who started the company in the mid 90's. Today they not only toted some of our backpacks, they also transferred me to Kinlochleven and the 'HGT' (an airport like code for Highland Getaway House) where we're spending tonight. Gilbert mentioned previously having a successful building business, though I would have guessed race driver. But I have to say I've never felt safer sitting on the wrong side of a vehicle, traveling on the wrong side of the road, with cars whizing by in the opposite direction all also driving on the wrong side! Driving is definitely different here. In fact, I even watched a young guy sitting in the driver's seat texting on his phone for a full THIRTY SECONDS without looking up even once. I was horrified. Until I remembered that over here they put the steering wheel on the passenger side. Crazy, right?
I'm guessing by now you too are hoping my blisters improve Fast! so that I get back into my boots and off the keyboard. Fingers crossed for all of us. Cheers!
you are right on about Dawn, Michael. She is pretty tough and makes those legs go pretty fast. She probably will have walked time and a half the total miles after all is said and done.
ReplyDeleteHi Michael - I'm glad the Compeed plasters are helping but sorry you're still in so much pain - nothing worse.
ReplyDeleteHowever - for those of us who've been following this blog daily for the past 66 days, I think we'd all become pretty complacent about exactly what Dawn and Al are doing. Since Al's picture (way back at the beginning) of his fab socks, we've never really considered blisters or feet (except the occasional mention of them being "a bit sore" after 20 miles) and we all kind of take it for granted that tomorrow they'll do what they say they're going to do. Your situation has really illustrated - in a way that nothing else could - exactly what they're doing - both mentally and physically - they are truly amazing!
And - yes - I had noticed that Dawn is always at the front and, although she'll have walked the same distance, she'll definitely have done twice as many steps - go Dawn!!
This fantastic blog is bringing back great memories, especially now that the path has converged with my route. I abosultely loved the WHW and camped overnight behind the Kings House after enjoying local venison and a few pints at the bar. I was heading north to south, the Devil's Staircase section is even worse going that way with a greater ascent. The long steep part by the big pipes above Kinlochleven was murder, however the sense of achievement and superb views made it all worthwhile.
ReplyDeleteYou've definitely got the hang of this blogging thing. Pictures of people eating, cute animals, sitting parlors ... something for everyone. Clearly an astute observer and a quick learner.
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