Day 72: A Slog to Inverness

Distance: 20.9 miles
Wind speed: 30 knots, gusts to 50 knots
Anniversary: 24th

Yesterday's post described a terrific walk: fair skies, sunshine, warmth, incredible views, reasonable distance, benches. It was sweet. Today was not like that. So let's just table the walk itself and talk about what a good time we had over breakfast.


You are probably thinking that's George Clooney between Jan and Dawn. A common mistake. But if you look closely you can see that our host is younger, stronger, and better looking. He also has a much more Scottish name: Alastair Ferguson. As I said yesterday, he and his wife Vanessa (sorry ladies) run a great B&B. Our fellow guest, whose name I sadly can't remember, was also great company. He's wearing the scarf of his hometown team, Borussia Dortmund, who won the German football championship this year.


We lingered over breakfast as long as we could, but the time came to put on our rain gear and strike out for Inverness.


The nicest views of the day came near the start, looking back at Urquhart Castle, as we started the climb out of Drumnadrochit.


We didn't appreciate it at the time, but the long walk up the hill in the wood was the most pleasant path of the day. After yesterday, we just assumed that we'd end up on a sunny ridge with beautiful views. Nope.


The path took us away from Loch Ness and up more than a thousand feet to a plateau, where it made its way through endless moors and forests. We started off walking in a light breeze. By the time we'd gotten up high, the breeze had turned into a gale force wind, with strong gusts blowing us all over the path. I've never been outside in such strong winds. Fortunately, the wind was at our back, otherwise, I'm not sure how we could have made forward progress.


After hours of plodding through the rainy, windy, viewless terrain, we had finally covered half our distance and were ready for lunch. Unfortunately, we were unable to conjure up a bench, and instead took refuge sitting on the ground next to a wall. The wind shifted just enough so that we caught the brunt of it. The rain started falling harder. We ate quickly, and got back underway.


Michael's blisters continue to be a problem, but with one day left nothing could stop him. It would have been nice to have some views, or at least nicer weather, because nothing takes MAK's mind off of foot pain like photography. But he pushed through, as we all did, and finally we made it to Inverness. I'm sure the walk through the park on the Ness Islands is beautiful in good weather, but today I'm just glad the bridges stayed intact and the winds didn't sweep us into the raging River Ness.


After we crossed this bridge, a young blonde with tight jeans and knee high leather boots came running past yelling, "Barney, Barney", so loud that we could hear her over the wind! Barney is her beagle, and he was lost. We promised to keep an eye out, but my guess is that most dogs in Inverness which go missing end up eaten. By this.


A few hours later, we had champagne glasses in hand toasting Michael and Jan for completing their walk from Edinburgh to Inverness! We really enjoyed their company for the past couple of weeks, and I'm sure all of our readers have enjoyed Michael's terrific photos. Though, just to be sure there is no misunderstanding: the picture of Nessie above is all mine!


Sorry the post is a day late. We procrastinated since we had a day off here in Inverness. But it worked out for us, as we found a perfect spot to write the blog: Leakey's, the largest second hand bookstore in Scotland. The space is amazing, an old church heated by a huge wood burning stove, books crammed into every nook and cranny, and a cafe on the top floor serving Espresso and delicious home made cakes.


Tonight we are having our second nice dinner in a row: this one to celebrate two dozen years of marriage! I am so lucky to be in love with a woman who will walk with me for over a thousand miles, even in a Scottish "summer". She is the best!


Tomorrow we are back on the road, walking to the town of Dingwall. When we told our waitress last night, she seemed surprised that anyone would go to Dingwall on purpose. We've had good news and bad news since then. The bad news is that we received a call from our Dingwall B&B that her boiler had exploded, and can't be fixed until Thursday, so there is no heat or hot water. There is a chance of frost here tonight, so we decided to look for another place. The good news is that the only place available is a suite at the Tulloch Castle. So that's where we're staying tomorrow!

Location:Hill St,Inverness,United Kingdom