Day 68: Head Start to the Great Glen Way

Distance: 7.9 miles
Tunnel Water Depth: 3 inches

In our original plans, today was a rest day at Fort William. But then I found Glengarry Castle, which looks super awesome, but at 27 miles, it's just out of our range. So instead of a rest day today, we had a short walk along the Caledonian Canal to Glen Loy lodge, giving us a manageable 20ish mile day tomorrow.



There was only one slight flaw in our plan. The Great Glen Way footpath is on the south side of the canal, but the lodge is on the north side, and there aren't many bridges, though there were some dashed lines across the water right where we needed them. I called the lodge: "Hi, it's Al. Can we get across the canal?". The answer: "We show you arriving on Sunday!". Oops. There had been a bit of confusion during booking, but Dawn had an email where it was all straightened out. Except, it seems, in their booking diary. It was a good thing I called, because the folks here were planning on being out all day today. We agreed that we'd leave a little earlier, and move fast, and get here before noon.


We woke to pouring rain, but by the time we'd finished breakfast the rain had stopped. Before nine we were walking, and the sun made an appearance. After a couple of miles we reached Inverlochy Castle, pictured above, and the weather was beautiful, mostly sunny, with clouds hanging in the tops of the mountains. We walked northwest, along the canal, and to our right had great views down Glen Nevis, bordered by craggy, snowy peaks.


The most prominent peak was the rugged north face of Ben Nevis. The other mountains may not have the size of Ben Nevis, but what they do have is awesome names that sound like they were invented by Tolkien: Aonach Mor, Aonach Beag, Carn Dearg, and lots more.


The canal is much wider and deeper than the ones we walked alongside in England. We saw sailboats using the canal, cabin cruisers, and even the Lord of the Glen, a 150 foot boat with a 60 person restaurant, 27 cabins, and passengers who wave to onshore walkers. With a beam of 34.5 feet, she just fits through the canal's 35 foot wide locks.


After just a couple of hours, we arrived at the map's dashed lines. After we'd figured out our arrival time, I learned that the dashed lines were a tunnel under the canal used for farm vehicles and the River Lochy. Or, depending on your point of view, an aquaduct that carries the canal over the river and the road. The only problem is that it gets a little wet. After our conversation I didn't know whether to expect an inch of water, or a half a foot.


It turned out that the whole length was filled with water, but for most of the way the water was below the tops of the six inch square stones they'd used to pave the way. Except for the last ten feet or so, where the stones disappeared under the water. It was just deep enough to soak our boot leather, but not go over the laces, so really not bad at all.


Michael and Jan took the day off of walking today, taking a train out to Mallaig on the coast. Tomorrow, they'll meet back up with us, and we'll walk along the north shore of Loch Lochy to Glengarry Castle.

Location:Erracht,Fort William,United Kingdom